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ALSO INSIDE 2016 School of Drycleaning Technology Course Guide Problems with Spandex Maximize Wash-Dry-Fold Revenue NovemberDecember 2015 NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 3 CONTENTS COVER FOCUS 15 Maximize Wash-Dry-Fold Revenue FEATURES 9 Do the Math 19 Course Guide 2016 23 Mail-in Survey 27 Low-Hanging Fruit Part 3 Boiler Troubleshooting DEPARTMENTS 5 Moment with Mary 6 Whats Happening 8 Recent Graduates 25 Industry Innovators TECHNICAL BULLETINS 29 Problems with Spandex Fabrics Fashions - No. 561 33 Invisible Stains TABS - No. 459 English Spanish 35 Loss of Whiteness Different Bolts TABS - No. 460 English Spanish 38 Brooks Brothers Coat Not in Vogue - No. 114 9 15 Vol. 47 Issue No. 6 23 25 37 4 FABRICARE BOARD OF DIRECTORS DLI DISTRICT COMMITTEE MEMBERS Kathy Benzinger District One DCM Benzingers Dry Cleaning 716 649-6499 P.O. Box 761 Hamburg NY 14075 Richard Buddy Gritz CED District Two DCM Presto Valet of VA Inc. 703 998-6464 1623 Quaker Ln Alexandria VA 22302 Perry Bullard District Three DCM Fabric Care Center 803 632-3155 P.O. Box 549 Brunson SC 29911 Jeff Sitz District Four DCM City Cleaners 330 864-9722 1608 West Market St Akron OH 44313 Jess Culpepper CGCP District Six DCM Culpepper Cleaners Inc. 210 684-2231 5203 Callaghan Rd San Antonio TX 78228 Hilary Taylor District Seven DCM Continental Cleaners 801 359-4448 902 S 900 E Salt Lake City UT 84105 Bobby Patel District Eight DCM Kona Cleaners 949 646-5110 333 E 17th St Costa Mesa CA 92627 Award of Excellence Awardee STAFF Publisher Mary Scalco Director of Communications Harry A. Kimmel III Designer Kathy Guido Fabricare Vol. 47 No. 6 ISSN 1084-6778 is published bi-monthly by the Drycleaning Laundry Institute at 14700 Sweitzer Lane Laurel MD 20707. 301 622-1900. All rights reserved. 2015 Drycleaning Laundry Institute. Written permission is required to reprint articles from this publication. The subscription price for Fabricare and The Journal of Drycleaning Laundry Institute is 65 a year to DLI members only. Periodicals postage paid at Laurel MD and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER Send address changes to Fabricare 14700 Sweitzer Lane Laurel MD 20707 14700 Sweitzer Lane Laurel Maryland 20707 301 622-1900 Fax 240 295-4200 ADVERTISING INDEX Advertising Information For information on advertising in Fabricare or to receive a current media kit or rate card call 1-800-638-2627. My Shoe Hospital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 IWA Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 TransFirst. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 EZ Products International. . . . . . . . . 17 Enviroforensics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Can you tell what went wrong with this garment Find the answer on pg. 33. What went wrong Greg Myers President Southside Cleaners 863 688-4747 901 South Florida Ave Lakeland FL 33803 Dave Beatty CPD President-Elect Murrysville Cleaners 724 327-6400 3945 Old William Penn Hwy Murrysville PA 15668 Michael Nesbit Treasurer MW Cleaners 281 320-9807 230 Spring Hill Dr Suite 325 Spring TX 77386 Allan P. Johnson III Chair Peerless Cleaners 361 887-0005 3434 South Staples St Corpus Christi TX 78411 John Dallas District One Director Fabricare House Cleaners 781 337-4495 32 Pond St Norwell MA 02061 Martin Young District Two Director Youngs Cleaners 704 786-3011 340 Church St Concord NC 28025 Leland Waite District Three Director Waites Cleaners 251 473-4984 P.O. Box 7187 Mobile AL 36670 Gary Maloney District Four Director Nu Yale Glacier Cleaners 812 285-7400 600 E. Hwy 62 Jeffersonville IN 47130 Dennis Schmitt District Five Director Lindemans Cleaners 920 435-5345 1231 S Monroe Avenue Green Bay WI 54301 Michael Nesbit District Six Director MW Cleaners 281 320-9807 230 Spring Hill Dr Suite 325 Spring TX 77386 Brad Ewing CED District Seven Director Nu Way Cleaners 970 336-8883 P.O. Box 336952 Greeley CO 80633 David Suber District Eight Director Perfect Cleaners 310 470-0330 10531 West Pico Blvd Los Angeles CA 90064 Mary Scalco CEO Corporate Secretary Drycleaning Laundry Institute 14700 Sweitzer Ln Laurel MD 20707 Joe Blaha Allied Trades GreenEarth Cleaning 303 810-3508 51 West 135th St Kansas City MO 64145 John Jordan Allied Trades Fabritec International 859 781-8200 8145 Holton Dr Suite 110 Florence KY 41043 S ometimes it seems like the holiday season is the only time we really assess our lives and feel the appreciation for those around us who make life enjoyable. I am as guilty of this as anyone. This year our amazing staff and dedicated Board of Directors accom- plished some truly remarkable feats. Every member of the DLI team is 100 committed to helping you succeed in this challenging industry. It is my sincere pleasure to work with such a passionate and devoted team. INVALUABLE INPUT Perhaps our finest hour was releasing the StainSolver App at the Clean Show. Were proud the Andriod version came out three months ahead of schedule. The overwhelmingly positive response to the new membership categories has been wonderful. All of these recent developments came from DLI members who asked us for help with a problem. Were at a point where we can begin to devote some resources to new solutions. We want to know what bothers you most. In your day-to-day work as a drycleaning business owner what is the biggest challenge you face We printed a short survey on pages 23 and 24. Please take a moment to answer the questions and send the survey back by January 1. I promise it will only take five minutes. Wed make it anonymous but when we called a test group of members we found we could help many of them immediately with material we already have. If we cant help with your issue right away well add your comments to the priority tally of emerging potential projects. REACHING OUT To deepen our understanding of how we can help were also reaching out to all members. Please if you get a call or e-mail take a moment to respond. With your insight we can develop better services. Even better dont wait for us to call. If somethings on your mind call e-mail fax or connect with us on Facebook Twitter LinkedIn or Google. Were listening and we want to help you. Listing all these great communications methods I almost forgot Our offices are always open. If youre in the Washington D.C. or Baltimore Metro area during regular business hours stop in and say hello. Check out the world-famous School of Drycleaning Technology when theres no class in session. Better take a class and see it ripple with energy and vibrance. See the research labs meet the staff. DLI truly houses one of the best drycleaning training facilities. This is only possible because of the generous support of our incomparable Allied Trades Members. Year after year they are always there for us. Our whole industrys collective success depends in no small part on their success. They develop new ways to do drycleaning and lift the industry as a whole. Please support the companies who support your Institute. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU As always to show my appreciation for your bound- less support I renew my pledge to never let DLI rest on its laurels. We will continue to improve innovate and excel at providing the best information and training in the garment care industry. We re your secret weapon and silent partner. Our sole mission is to help you succeed. Your input is invaluable. Im really excited to see what our next assignment will be. All the best this season and looking forward to an exciting New Year Mary Scalco NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 5 A Lot to Be Thankful For MOMENT WITH MARY 6 FABRICARE WHAT S HAPPENING Director Nominations Open District 7 BRAD EWING CED Nu Way Cleaners Greely Colorado 970 3368883 District 8 DAVE SUBER Perfect Cleaners Los Angeles California 310 470-0330 DLI IS SEEKING NOMINATIONS FOR DIRECTORS IN DISTRICTS 7 AND 8. District 7 covers Arizona Nevada Alaska Idaho Colorado Utah Wyoming Montana Oregon and Washington. District 8 covers California and Hawaii. Please contact the current District Director or DLI CEO Mary Scalco for more information on making a nomination. DON ROSEN PASSED AWAY SEPTEMBER 17TH 2015. A well-known and respected fig- ure in the industry community and in busi- ness community Rosen lead the growth of Pilgrim Dry Cleaners in Minneapolis Min- nesota. This year the company celebrated 75 years in business and 30 years of Coats For Kids a program Rosen started. Rosens career ranged from building plants to becoming a drycleaning owner. Pil- grim Dry Cleaners is now in its third gener- ation with 25 locations and home and office delivery routes. His daughter Bonnie Engler said We will continue to keep my fathers traditions alive. The tributes cards and won- derful lessons about how to live your per- sonal and business life are life lessons he left with everyone he met. Rosen served in the Army during World War II and his unit freed prisoners at a Ger- man concentration camp. His full obituary is available in the Minneapolis StarTribune httpow.lyTj7js Industry Icon Don Rosen Passes STAIN REMOVAL CLASS LEFT TO RIGHT Brian Johnson Director of Education Analysis Yadiraha Arroyo CD One Price Cleaners 37 Westmont IL Patricia Brooks CD One Price Cleaners 37 Westmont IL Henry Calix Sudsies Dry Cleaners Miami Beach FL Dany Fuentes Sudsies Dry Cleaners Miami Beach FL John Scuola Pariser Industries Inc. Paterson NJ Martin Kirby Victors Cleaners Huntington WV. 8 FABRICARE RECENT GRADUATE S SUMMER 2015 INTRODUCTION TO DRYCLEANING CLASS Premier Club Scholarship FRONT ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Brian Johnson DLI Director of Education Analysis Paige Green Glyndon Lord Baltimore Cleaners Glyndon MD Bill Brown Best Cleaners Schenectady NY Daniel Fitzgerald CD One Price Cleaners Westchester IL Lindsey Beane Fordhams Cleaners Greensboro NC Riz Gillani London Cleaners Inc. Etobicoke Ontario Canada Augusta Eddy Clothesline Cleaners Boise ID Elton Cerda DryCleanNYC New York NY Bipin Batra Moab UT Peimaneh Mohandesi Moab UT. BACK ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Michael Shader Milt Edies Dry Cleaners Burbank CA Carter Jones Corks Fabricare Saint Simons Island GA Lawrence Dickey Classic Cleaners Indianapolis IN Ileana Hernandez Paradise Dry Cleaner Dickinson ND Ryan Bernardin Gwynnie Bee Groveport OH Bayo Yusuf IClean LaundryDry Cleaning Solutions Surulere NIGERIA Dilip Param Ironwala Services Private Limited Domlur Bangalore INDIA Barry Teichman Jefferson Park Valet Shop Chicago IL Eric Wollenhaupt Classic Cleaners Indianapolis IN Robert Hawkins Lyons Cleaners Memphis TN Joey Williams Williams Fabricare Wilmington NC Nate Whitmer Balfurd Cleaners State College PA Dylan Forney Quality Cleaners Mullins SC Margarito Gomez McLean Cleaners McLean VA Ericka Ponte Gwynnie Bee Groveport OH Keith Nellenback Halekulani Hotel Honolulu HI. Editors note In our previous issue Augusta Eddy was accidentally omitted from our class photo caption. Scholarships available for 2015 sessions call 800-638-2627. NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 9 FE ATURE REMEMBER WHEN YOU WERE IN SCHOOL ESPECIALLY ELEMENTARY SCHOOL AND YOU LEARNED MATH The teacher presented problems like 75 is 40 of what num- ber What If youre like me you surely asked yourself or perhaps even the teacher When will I need this in later life Well todays the day that you get to apply what you learned all those years ago. Today we will discover how math and math formulas play so heavily in productivity plant layout and logistics in a drycleaning plant. I think that youll be amazed. Have you ever wondered why you dont get 50-60 pants per hour on your sandwich legger How do you calculate total plant capacity How do you synchronize the pressing department with the drycleaning machines WHY PRECISE EQUIPMENT SET-UP IS VITAL When a plant is setup with two utility presses and one pants station two drycleaning pressers it is set up for maximum productivity. Why To figure a plants approximate capacity start at the shirt unit. Why do your drycleaning pressers under-produce The calculations start with a scale cart in the drycleaning room. If you bought a double-legger the kind that presses both legs at once why didnt your productivity change Because of the math. MATH I warned you that there would be math involved. Lets begin. When I look pressing productivity I do not use DLIs guidelines. Its not that I disagree with them at all. I whole-heartedly endorse them and I think that everyone should know them and strive for them. My usual goals are lower simply because I am trying to illustrate that even when you arent at the apex you will still run an efficient and profitable shop and still have room to improve. You dont have to hit a grand slam to win the game. I think that a pants presser should press 40 pants per hour a util- ity presser should press 30 pieces per hour single buck shirt presser 45 shirts per hour and 90 with two people on Do the Math Don Desrosiers Calculates Common Production Figures By Don Desrosiers 10 FABRICARE a double buck. You dont have to agree with these but know that they are lower than DLIs targets and are somewhat conservative. You probably arent getting those numbers. Im here to tell you why. Lets begin with the premise that pants are 40 of your total drycleaning pieces. Everyone that has questioned that statistic learns after generating a report or two that they too are right there within a point or two. So in a batch of 100 garments 60 of them are not pants. If you have a plant with two utility presses and 1 pants press the latter handles 40 pants and the two utility pressers take care of the remaining 60 pieces. It doesnt matter if each does 30 or one does 25 linens and more difficult items and the other does 35 sweaters ties etc. The math says that two of the pressers combine to do 60 of your gar- ments while the third does the remaining 40. I love it when 3 pressers combine to do 100 pieces in one hour easily do-able and below DLIs targets but it doesnt re- ally matter if it takes longer than an hour to do those 100 pieces as long as the math proportions work out. As- suming 100 pieces per hour with 3 people that averages out to be 33 pieces per presser per hour 33pph. more on that later If you have one utility press and one pants press the pressers expect to finish at the same time. It does happen but it is rare to see a pants presser bang out 225 pants and then happily clock out and go home while the other presser stays and presses the other quick 225 is 40 of what number minus 225 338 pieces. In the- ory this means that the pants presser works for 5 hours and 40 minutes then clocks out and goes home and the utility presser works for 10 hours. This only happens when the pants presser has someplace to go after work. Most likely they combine to work nine hours each. Cost- ing you over 10000 per year 16hrs X 12 2hrs X 1.5 X 12 15.66hrs X 12 X 5 days X 52 weeks Ideally that is 35.9pph but itll more likely be 31pph. There is a work-around however. The pants presser also does easy pieces items that only need up-steam like sweaters ties belts etc. This evens out the piece count be- tween the two pressers. Its a reasonable work-around but the pressers dont like it too much and no one seems to think of doing this. Putting this work-around aside for a minute enter the double legger press. Its a great machine and in Japan they so routinely get 60 pants per hour that the produc- tivity rate isnt even used as a selling point by the equip- ment dealers. But lets say that you target 50 pants per hour with your new double-legger. Why doesnt it hap- pen The answer is in the math In the first example above 1 pants presser and 1 utility presser the person pressing pants would be done all of the days pants after four-and-a-half hours. Forget it. If you have two pants pressers each under-achieving at 25 pants per hour will one double-legger press doing 50 pants per hour cut your labor to press pants in half Nope. A human that presses a mere 25 pants per hour on a traditional pants press lacks the co-ordination drive and dexterity to press 50 pants on a double-legger. Whats the remedy You guessed it. The solution is mathematical. If you want to do 50 pants per hour you need to press quick 50 is 40 of what number minus 50 75 utility pieces per hour. This means that 1. Your two utility pressers need to combine to press 75 pieces per hour. This doesnt sound too lofty but it isnt likely. It is just a bit too much for two people with good quality. There may be bursts of time when it happens but the global average wont be there. If it did work this way you PPH would be spectacular at nearly 42 2. Yoursingleutility presserwillfalldrastically be- hind and work much later than the person that presses pants 3. Your two utility pressers need to combine to press the usual pieces per hour and the person pressing pants is better suited to keep pace with them and presses 40 pants per hour. No increase in production as anticipated 4. The pants presser also does easy pieces items that only need up-steam like sweaters ties belts etc. This evens out the piece count between the two pressers. Its a reasonable work-around but the pants presser will not be able to do 50 pants per hour in this format. FE ATURE NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 11 MAXIMIZING So how do you get maximum productivity out of your double-legger press Its easy. Its math. you wont like this answer Have two double-legger presses and five util- ity presses. The pants pressers combine to produce 100 pieces per hour in a plant that produces 100 is 40 of what number 250 pieces per hour while the five utility pressers combine to press the other 150 pieces by each pressing 30 pieces per hour. I told you that you wouldnt like the answer. The problem of course is that you need to be doing 1500 pieces per day. Big problem for many of you. The good news is that you actually benefit from the economies of scale by getting 35.7PPH. Pretty darn good. Many times in this industry the economies of scale dont work in our favor. This time it does. The reality is that in any of these scenarios good man- agement can work it out. Im not trying to spin a tale of woe but I have learned that plant operators have a ten- dency to be hands-off with lot control and let the chips fall where they may. And incidentally lot control means anything that you want it to mean throughout this article. If you use barcodes a lot is a batch from a store a group of stores or a route or group of routes. If you use color-per- day a lot is that batch etc. You get the idea. In any case you want to keep orders together at least conceptually and 40 of the pieces in a typical batch will be pants. What about total labor and productivity control Many plant operators tell me that they keep some gar- ments hanging for the pressers to start with the next day. It is almost always a joke because they dont leave nearly enough. Lets assume that your press room produces 60 pieces per hour. How many pieces does your drycleaning department churn out If the numbers dont match ad- justments must be made in order to keep labor costs in line. Everybodys plant will be different but lets say that you have a 40 GreenEarth machine with a 70-minute cycle. The capacity of this machine is between 32 and 36 pounds of clothes. Lets call that 35 pieces. You have a scale cart of course. Assuming that there is a 10-minute lead time between machine cycles you can clean 35 pieces in 80 minutes. And remember you can press 60 pieces in 60 minutes. Its not hard to see the paradox. But some pieces are wet-cleaned so even plants with only one drycleaning machine can easily produce more than 35 pieces in 80 minutes. How much more Once again using our industry-standard one piece one pound your washer is packed with 50 pieces. It runs for 45 minutes and those garments are dried for 45 minutes and we will add a 10-minute lead time here as well. So here you need 100 minutes to clean 50 pieces. All tolled you can dryclean 35 pieces in 80 minutes and wet-clean 50 pieces in 100 minutes. This makes your total wheel capacity 56 pieces per hour. 35 pcs X 60 minutes divided by 80 min- utes 50 pcs X 60 minutes divided by 100 minutes. You are mathematically behind the production curve right out of the gate. And that makes four HUGE assumptions 1. You have 35 pieces to clean every 80 minutes 2. The drycleaning machine is functioning properly and is always available to you 3. You have 50 wetclean-able garments to wash every 100 minutes this is a tough one 4. The washer is continually available to you quite a challenge if this machine is also supposed to wash shirts FE ATURE 12 FABRICARE FE ATURE Assuming that you can keep the wash wheels turning at this rate it will take the cleaning room six-and- a-half hours to produce what the pressers can press in six hours. There will need to be approximately 90 garments ready to press before the pressers begin lest they catch up to the cleaner. If you dont do this your pressers will under-produce be- cause there wont be enough clothes to press. Ok one more math problem. I am often asked about plant capacity. This is arbitrary. Whatever you are able to produce in an eight-hour day is 13 of your capacity. You own your equipment 247 and you rent your space around the clock. Therefore plant capacity is easy to cal- culate. Except for one thing running your plant 247 probably isnt an option. When I calculate plant capac- ity I am referring to a 40-hour week. This assumes 10- hour days on Monday and Tuesday and dwindling piece counts as the week progresses. That point by itself sort of disproves the triple what youre doing now method. You cant work 30 hours on neither Monday nor Tuesday. To calculate your breathable maximum volume start at the shirt unit. Lets say that you have a single buck shirt unit. It can produce 50 shirts per hour for 40 hours. 2000 shirts. In many markets in the U.S. that means that you will also take in approximately 2000 drycleaning pieces. adjust according to your local demographic. Given the average average revenue per piece of 4.60 this plant can produce roughly 1000000 per year in gross revenue. Recalling the volume that a pants presser plus a utility presser can get out say 70 pieces per hour they would work part-time in this scenario. A mere 27 hours. This is extremely costly because your plant would be running 13 of the time with only the shirt department running. There isnt enough profit in shirt laundering to support that. Alternately as so many plant operators see 27 hours are stretched into 40. Even more costly Now for our last exercise lets take a look at what an optimally equipment plant would look like. Lets presume a double-buck rotary shirt unit with two collar cuff machines. Lets target that at 90 pieces per hour. Two utility presses along with one pants station. This can produce 90 pieces per hour as well. Now you can pro- duce 7200 pieces - 1.7 million in gross revenue with a press room that equipment with only marginally more equipment. But more importantly a press room that is fine-tuned to produce maximum productivity. Just make sure that your wheel capacity matches the press capacity. Its all in the math Enter the double-legger press. Don Desrosiers has been in the drycleaning and shirt laundering business since 1978. He is a workflow engineer and a management consultant who provides serves to shirt launderers and drycleaners in the United States Mexico and western Europe through Tailwind Systems. He is a member of the Society of Professional Consultants and the 2001 recipient of DLIs Commitment to Professionalism Award. He can be reached at 186 Narrow Avenue Westport MA 02790 or at his office by fax 508 636-8839 by cell 508 965-3163 or e-mail at He has a website at A lot of math goes into workflow systems engineering. Don Desrosiers left shares the equations you need to get the most out of your system. NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 13 COVER FOCUS A WIDELY-GROWING ANCILLARY SERVICE IN THE DRYCLEANING BUSINESS IS WASH-DRY-FOLD OR FLUFF- AND-FOLDDROP-OFFLAUNDRYBUNDLEDSERVICESETC. Whatever you choose to call it the big question is fig- uring out how to determine the pricing for this service Do you visit the other local laundromats websites Do you survey your prospects for a comfortable price point Or do you pull a number out of a hat I prefer to conduct extensive research and I advise my clients to do the same. By doing so youll likely charge higher prices for this luxury service which after all is tar- geted toward those with more money than time. Before setting any drop-off prices I suggest the follow- ing steps Make a checklist of competing drop-off services within a one- to three-mile radius of your store. Shop your competition. I would bring in 10 pounds of various laundryclothing items to each location and try out their drop-off services. Upon picking up a finished order I would take it back to my business and deconstruct it. Using a detailed checklist Id assess every aspect including customer service quality of product presentation and pricing. If you would like a copy of this checklist e-mail me at I continue to be surprised by the number of owners who have no idea who their competition is or what they charge as well as the appearance of their finished products. If your drop-off service is superior to the competition why would you charge the same prices they do How do you determine what prices to charge your cus- tomers Here are some initial questions to ask yourself Maximize Wash-Dry-Fold Revenue Some Simple Strategies for Getting Top Dollar for Your Drop-Off Service By Beverly Blank COVER FOCUS What are my actual costs of doing a 20-pound order What are my fixed costs versus my varied costs Do I include labor in my pricing Do I save money using low-cost off brands To save money do I use only one machine to wash everything regardless of the colors Do I use net bags or do I tag everything so that multiple orders can be washed together in one larger machine Do I prefer to offer lower prices which will usually result in more volume in turn adding more labor equipment usage and product costs to my bottom line According to a number of successful owners who han- dle a substantial amount of dropoff laundry a 20-pound high-efficiency washer will cost approximately 31 cents per turn depending on your water and sewer costs of course. The cost of cleaning products will add about 30 cents to this figure. So the total cost to wash one 20- pound load would be roughly 61 cents. As for drying natural gas prices vary throughout the country however for this example lets estimate the cost to be somewhere between about 40 cents to 65 cents add another cent or two if dryer sheets are used. Based on these averages it will cost from 1.00 to 2.00 to wash and dry a 20-pound load using just one washer and one dryer. Of course the primary expense in any wash-dry-fold service is the labor involved. There are two schools of thought on this topic 1 labor is a fixed cost counter staff is present whether or not they are doing wash-dry- fold and 2 labor is a varied cost and must be included in the expenses of the service. Despite these opposing philosophies best practices dic- tate that in nearly all cases labor should indeed be fac- tored into your wash-dry-fold cost equation. With my drop-off service having checked out my com- petitors whose wash-dry-fold services ranged in price from 85 cents to 1.35 per pound I was determined to be the price leader by offering an extraordinary laundry experi- ence personalized professional and promptly delivered. How can you distinguish your drop-off service from the rest of the crowd thus justifying higher prices Hiring and training counter staff to interact with and educate your customers is the first thing. A properly an- swered telephone often can convert an inquiry into a reg- ular customer. Assisting customers answering their questions addressing their concerns and promoting the benefits your services should be automatic responses from your sales team. Finding ways to compensate your staff will only help to increase your drop-off revenue. Re- member that compliments are always appreciated but they dont pay the rent. Customers need to be made aware of the ways in which your service is unique. I always tell new customers who are often shocked to learn that we never combine orders unless they request us to do so. Most customers in their haste to get out the door have no idea what procedures are taken to do their garments. However when they return to retrieve their orders the fin- ished products look good smell good and the price has already been determined. The following are questions we ask first-time customers so that they know COVER FOCUS 14 FABRICARE NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 15 COVER FOCUS we tailor our services according to their needs Do you have any product preferences eco-friendly soaps no dyes or perfumes etc. Is chlorine bleach OK Do you want softenerdryer sheets Should everything be folded or should hangers be used where appropriate Is air-drying required As long as customer requests are reasonable we make them happen. Our turnaround time is 24 hours. Through my research Ive discovered that many wash-dry-fold businesses offer same-day service with no added charge or just a small extra charge. I wholeheartedly disagree with this philosophy. After all if youre doing a lot of wash-dry-fold orders same-day service can place added pressure on your staff resulting in excessive production errors such as lost and misplaced items not to mention a reduction in the quality of the staffs performance. An unhappy dissatisfied customer may just take those piles of clothing down the street to a competitor. If customers require same-day service we will accom- modate their wishes but they will be charged substantially more because other orders will be delayed. Under no cir- cumstances would I ask my staff to compromise our step- by-step procedures which rush orders often require in order to meet that deadline. Next how do you package the finished product Too often finished wash-dry-fold orders are stacked haphazardly with inside-out socks draped over a pil- lowcase towels carelessly folded womens and mens un- derwear combined etc. This mess is then wrapped up in butcher paper and sealed with strips of tape or placed in a black heavy-duty trash bag. How unsightly By contrast when our customers return weve pack- aged their items attractively and carefully organized and arranged everything by category socks lingerie T-shirts and underwear all bagged separately for easy storage. 16 FABRICARE COVER FOCUS Restructure your packaging procedures to make them eye- catching and Ill bet you too will create raving fans and returning customers. Here are some additional ways to increase your drop-off prices by thinking outside the box Charge more for same- day service. Charge more for special products eco-friendly soap hangers etc. Provide individual pricing for comforters blankets sleeping bags duvets car mats etc. Once again see what your competition including local dryclean- ers charge and then charge more. Only 20 percent of laundromats offer delivery serv- ices limiting your competition. You can charge higher prices for this convenient service. You can expand your customer base and include commer- cial accounts which typically are easier to process. Offer tiered pricing by differentiating between basic standard and premium services. Customers love options and can decide whats within their budgets. Consider extending your business hours to handle more drop-off and commercial accounts and to avoid interfering with your regular walk-in customers. All it takes is a little research and some creative thinking and youll be well on your way to increased wash-dry-fold profits. This article originally appeared in the November 2014 issue of Planet Laundry the Coin Laundry Association magazine. Beverly Blank owns and operates Beverlys Concierge Laundry Services based in Los Angeles. She also provides consulting to laundry owners looking to start or upgrade a drop-off laundry business. Ms. Blank can be reached at NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 1717 Are YouReceiving Our Messages DLI IS DELIVERING MORE CONTENT NOW THAN EVER BEFORE. Were able to do this through our new website and by sending a lot of information through e-mail. If youre not receiving these newsletters regularly then please take a moment to give DLI your e-mail address. Call DLI at 800-638-2627 to register your e-mail or send a note to Every Monday morning except some holidays Every Tuesday morning Monthly Monthly FE ATURE FInd us on Facebook Twitter LinkedIn and Google 18 FABRICARE 1-800-638-2627 Practical Training English E Korean K Spanish S 59 each Quality Pants Finishing E S Quality Coat Finishing E S Quality Shirt Finishing E S Inspection Perfection E Advanced Stain Removal Techniques E S Practical Training Video Training Manual 149 each Basic Stain Removal Techniques E S Quality Finishing Techniques E S K Customer Service Training E Self-Study Certificate Courses 89 each Stain Removal includes stain swatches Drycleaning Fundamentals Wet Cleaning Drycleaning and the Environment Drycleaning Business Management Drycleaning Finishing Procedures Customer Service in Drycleaning Fibers and Fabrics CANT MAKE IT TO DLIS SCHOOL Here are some ways to get training for your staff. All titles available for digital download some titles available on DVD or Video CD. Call 800-638-2627 to order. AVAILABLE IN SPANISH KOREAN SELECTED ITEMS DLISCHOOL OF DRYCLEANING TECHNOLOGY CELEBRATING 89 YEARS COURSE GUIDE 2016 Icameawayfromtheworkshopfeelingsoconfidentanditreally does help when working with these clients. I went to a meeting last week and could not shut up about your training when my clientrealisedhowdifferentyouroperationsarenow.Thanks for the wonderful training and new skills I now have. - Bayo Yusuf iClean Laundry 2015 Graduate FIVE-DAY INTRODUCTION TO DRYCLEANING COURSE Geared toward individuals new to the industry or with less than one year of experience. This course covers DLI Members 795 2 or more people from same plant 659 each Others 1149 Premier Club Members FREE 10 Seal of Approval points1 TEN-DAY ADVANCED DRYCLEANING COURSE This ten day Advanced Drycleaning Course is for individuals who have completed the Introduction Course or have hands-on production experience and knowledge of basic stain removal and finishing techniques. The advanced course covers DLI Members 1249 2 or more people from same plant 1049 each Others 1749 20 Seal of Approval points FIFTEEN-DAY GENERAL DRYCLEANING COURSE This fifteen day general course is made up of the Introduction and Advanced Courses. These classes also can be taken individually but DLI affiliates save 449 when they are taken together. DLI Members 1595 2 or more people from same plant 1295 each Others 2495 30 Seal of Approval points THREE-DAY STAIN REMOVAL COURSE Three days of instruction and practical application on stain removal. This course teaches the principles and chemistry behind stain removal how to identify stains by type and remove stains properly. The course will cover DLI Members 449 2 or more people from same plant 349 each Others 549 Premier Club Members FREE 6 Seal of Approval points FIVE-DAY CLEANING STAIN REMOVAL COURSE Five days of instruction and practical application on stain removal and cleaning procedures. The course will cover DLI Members 795 2 or more people from same plant 659 each Others 1149 Premier Club Members FREE 10 Seal of Approval points Are you ready to change your life Identifying cotton silk polyester and other fabrics. Using bleaches without damaging the fabric color. Pressing blouses dresses ties pleated garments silks velvets corduroy. Wetcleaning wool silk and more. Maintaining and changing filters. Troubleshooting problems with the drycleaning machine. Using tensioning equipment to improve finishing quality. Current regulations facing the drycleaning industry. Customer service techniques for drycleaners. Getting clean white laundry. Cleaning and preserving wedding gowns. Understanding the differences between solvents including perc GreenEarth hydrocarbon. Pressing laundered shirts. Designing a drycleaning plant with the most effective work flow. Sorting loads for drycleaning. Cleaning silk satin and other fabrics. Operating a drycleaning machine. Removing coffee ink grease and other stains from clothing. Pressing pants coats skirts. Using tensioning equipment to improve finishing quality. Removing coffee ink grease and other stains from clothing. Identifying cotton silk polyester and other fabrics. Using bleaches without damaging the fabric color. Using specialty products such as digesters amyl acetate and ace- tone in stain removal. Removing spotting rings and water marks. Identifying fibers and fabric construction. 1 Educational opportunities are the fastest path to the Seal of Approval Award of Excellence for Quality Garment Cleaning Customer Service. To qualify a drycleaning facility must achieve a total of 30 points of which 10 are for mandatory criteria. CLASS DESCRIPTION 2 0 1 6 C O U R S E G U I D E Sorting loads for drycleaning Cleaning silk satin and other fabrics Operating a drycleaning machine Removing coffee ink grease and other stains from clothing Identifying cotton silk polyester and other fabrics Using bleaches without damaging the fabric color Maintaining and changing filters Troubleshooting problems with the drycleaning machine Understanding the differences between solvents including perc GreenEarth hydrocarbon 2 0 1 6 C O U R S E G U I D E REGISTER TODAY 1-800-638-2627 Everyone in the drycleaning industry should take these classes. Ahmad Osmanzada Clean Smart The experience and in- formation was amazing If you havent been there yet I would recommend going. Maria Eggers Shorty Cleaner Launderer DLI ON THE ROAD DLI will offer several installments of its Introduction to Drycleaning Course in select U.S. cities as part of our DLI On the Road program. Please call for details. 40000 IN SCHOLARSHIPS The following scholarships have been generously provided to the School of Drycleaning Technology. Contact DLIs Education Department at 1-800-638-2627 Ext. 1603 for more information. Adco Scholarship Cleaners Supply Scholarship Fitzgerald WFI Scholarship Lucky Amatore Memorial Scholarship MidAtlantic Association of Cleaners Scholarship NIE Scholarships Ohio Cleaners Scholarship R.R. Street Co. Scholarships Tom Kimmel Memorial Scholarship Wade Elam Scholarship Walter Krefetz Scholarship The School of Drycleaning Technology maintains accreditation through the Maryland Higher Education Commission. The School of Drycleaning Technology is approved by the Department of Veterans Affairs as an institution of higher learner providing non-college degree training. 2016 TRAINING SCHEDULE SPRING SESSION INTRODUCTION TO DRYCLEANING February 22 - 26 ADVANCED DRYCLEANING February 29 - March 11 SUMMER SESSION INTRODUCTION TO DRYCLEANING July 11 - 15 ADVANCED DRYCLEANING July 18 - 29 CLEANING STAIN REMOVAL August 22 - 26 FALL SESSION INTRODUCTION TO DRYCLEANING October 17 - 21 ADVANCED DRYCLEANING October 24 - November 4 SCHEDULE INFORMATION SURVEY QUESTIONS 1. What is the most challenging part of your day when it comes to running your drycleaning operation ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ 2. What is the most useful thing DLI has done for you ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ 3. What business task takes up most of your time ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ 4. If you had more time what would you learn about that might help your business ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ DLI DevelopmentHello Thanks very much for your membership. At DLI we are conducting research to determine what we can do to help members the most. Please share your thoughts on the following four questions. We are also calling members for interviews. In this process we found we were able to help them most often with an existing bulletin. If youd like us to look into the issues you state and share some information that could help please include you email address. After you complete the survey please fold it over tape it closed and drop it in the mail. Thanks again for your involvement with DLI and taking a few moments to share your insights. Mary Scalco DLI CEO Completesurveycutherefoldtapeandreturn. Company Contact Name ___________________________________________________ Email _____________________________________________________________________ BUSINESS REPLY MAIL FIRST-CLASS MAIL PERMIT NO. POSTAGE WILL BE PAID BY ADDRESSEE DRYCLEANING LAUNDRY INSTITUTE 14700 SWEITZER LANE LAUREL MARYLAND 20707-5904 IF MAI IN TH UNITED S DESTROY ANYSTAIN WITHDLISAPP FFRREEEE FoldheretapeandmailintoDLI. Placetapehere. Placetapehere. BUDGETMEMBERSUpgradetoSilverGoldor PremiertounlockthebestofDLI.GettheApp EncyclopediaofDrycleaningOnlineaccess regularmarketingandproblemgarmentalerts andmuchmore. Call800-638-2627toupgradetoday. GettheApp GoSilver Place Stamp Here NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 25 FE ATUREFE ATURE METRO-CHEM The Art of Laundry Kearny New Jersey-based Metro-Chem has pro- moted the art and science of laundry since 1980 as- sisting the uniform linen supply hospitality and shirt laundry industries with superior service and techni- cal expertise. Specializing in formulations that save water energy time and labor the company offers a full lineup of liquid and powdered laundry products for every kind of wash procedure as well as state-of- the-art chemical injection systems. Metro-Chem offers complete programs of deter- gents bleaches sours softeners and starches or can help operators keep things simple with a one-shot product. It also offers an exclusive line of wetcleaning products as well as environmentally friendly prod- ucts that satisfy the most stringent environmental reg- ulations. Better still Metro-Chem prices its products competitively. With Metro-Chem products linens last longer clothing looks better and uniforms are the best they can be. Knowing that a perfect shirt is the drycleaners calling card Metro-Chem has long designed top-shelf products and systems for shirt laundries. The origi- nal powder system that set the standard for shirts 30 years ago is still going strong today. Powdered formulas for other procedures include Wow enzyme detergent which delivers bright whites and colors in a low-pH formula. Evolve features all of the latest cleaning technology in a one-shot detergent. Solar-Sol biodegradable degreasing solvent works on the toughest oil and grease stains on linens and uni- forms. And thats just the beginningask about Mil- lennium 2000 detergents Natural Starch Plus Ultimate alkalis and Metro Gold low-pH liquid de- tergent builder. Metro-Chem also offers expert plant analysis product demonstration plant setup and equipment programming. Preventative maintenance services in- clude washroom audits that cover washer function water textile and garment analysis bilingual signage and staff training. Metro-Chem also designs laundry products such as Vision Green and Opal Green neutral pH liquid detergents Green 2000 powdered detergent and Ultra-Green performance powdered built detergent to be energy-efficient and conserve water while pro- tecting the environment. We use your water and en- ergy as if we were paying the bill Metro-Chem says. CLEANERS SUPPLY Cataloging Savings Cleaners Supply started out in small-town Con- klin New York and quickly figured out it couldnt survive by distributing supplies only to drycleaners located near its headquarters. Since then the com- pany has revolutionized supply sales by distributing directly to drycleaners nationwide through its cata- The drycleaning industry in America has never been driven by just one company or just one operatorwidespread innovation and the entrepreneurial spirit keep it going. But once inside this highly individualistic industry many companies stand out as forces that have contributed greatly to drycleaning through all of its changes and challenges in the past present and future. These are just a few of the companies that evolved alongside the industry and helped it survive and thrive along the way. These are Industry Innovators. IndustryInnovatorsBy Ian P. Murphy Special to Fabricare log and website. Offering friendly capable customer service and low prices the company is now one of the industrys leading suppliers. Cleaners Supply says its mantra is to provide reli- able dependable products at a tremendous value defining that value as a combination of quality price performance convenience and service. The company strives to exceed expectations in all five areas and offers a satisfaction guarantee should it fail to do so. The company offers an exhaustive variety of tags pins bags packaging supplies press pads irons spot- ting tools pumps valves signage tailoring supplies carts racks boxes and hangersall of the little things drycleaners rely on every day to deliver a quality prod- uct. Customer service agents are ready to take orders in English or Korean on Cleaners Supplys toll-free lines via email and online at The company has an additional warehouse in Nevada so most customers in the continental United States can receive their orders within two days. Orders placed by 5 p.m. Eastern time ship the same day if the items are in stock and expedited shipping is available in emergencies. An educated customer is the best customer and over the years Cleaners Supply has made itself into a respected source of industry wisdom and advice. The companys site hosts an Articles and Advice section to inform customers about their options and suggest solu- tions to their problems. Cleaners Supply also sponsors chats with experts in drycleaning operations marketing and other areas on the floor of the Clean Show. SANTEC CLEAN NEEDS Keeping It Clean Linden New Jersey-based Santec Clean Needs helps businesses in the food service food processing hospital- ity and textile-care industries keep their operations up to expectations with cleaning products modern equipment and sophisticated procedures. When a new client comes to Santec the company immediately assigns one of its dedicated Clean Needs Specialist CNS to handle their account. The CNS analyzes the work environment and creates a turnkey plan that keeps everything up to the required standards offering the products dispensers and equipment the client will need. In laundry and linen care Santec offers superior products with measuring and dispensing systems that guarantee consistent effective results without ever com- promising quality. Textile-care customers get noticed for their fresher cleaner laundry right away Santec says even big operations that use tunnel washers. Santec offers a range of laundry detergents builders sours and neutralizers destainers softeners prespotters odor eliminators and specialty chemicals to suit laundry needs. It designs products to meet its environmentally preferred Greencove standard whenever possible mak- ing them biodegradable non-toxic phosphorous-free and fabric-safe. Santec is a partner of the EPAs Design for Environment DfE program and many of its prod- ucts carry the DfE logo after clearing a scientific review. The company sells rents and leases industrial washers and dryers and offers a complete design and installation service. It can build an entire laundry facility from scratch and everything it provides plus any equipment already in place. Its tech wizards have an encyclopedic knowledge of commercial washers and dryers and arrive in trucks stocked with replacement parts to get plants up and running fast. Santec Clean Needs also helps train staffers to use its products effectively offering multilingual wall charts to reinforce training after its CNS leaves the plant to take the guesswork out of the process. SELECT RISK Insuring Success As an independent insurance agency based in Long Beach California Select Risk can assist drycleaning and laundry operators with all of their insurance needs. Prid- ing itself on personalized customer service the com- pany helps manage and plan for all potential risks and offers a wide range of insurance coverages. The company builds relationships with its customers to help them feel comfortable and confident in their coverage. Clients should also be proud of their thrift since Select Risk seeks products that offer appropriate coverage at fair prices. The company is dedicated to delivering the best products and services available for business and family. For drycleaning and laundry operations Select Risk offers insurance packages that can cover the place of business business property equipment inventory and company vehicles such as route trucks. Select Risk can also help plant operators structure group health and retirement plans. Commercial operators can take advantage of specialty risk management programs life insurance annuities health and dental insurance and Medicare supplement insurance. Select Risk can also help businesses set up traditional and Roth IRAs annuities and 401ks. Property insurance covers damage to buildings equip- ment furniture fixtures inventories records supplies and other items. Direct losses covered can include lost stolen damaged or destroyed inventory. Plus casualty insurance can protect against liability from fire damage personal or advertising injury medical payments and more. Select Risks Business Owners Package combines lia- bility property and other coverages into a comprehen- sive policy that saves money on a business overall insurance program often adding a commercial umbrella policy to protect against lawsuits. Finally Select Risk offers Workers Compensation coverage to handle bodily injury and illness arising from employment. Ian P. Murphy is a freelance writer and editor based in Chicago. He served as the editor of American Drycleaner magazine from 1999-2011. continued from page 25 26 FABRICARE FE ATURE NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 27 FE ATURE IN THIS SPACE I AM SHARING SEVERAL ARTICLES I LIKE TO CALL LOW-HANGING FRUIT. These are easy tests and repairs that can save money. This issues installment will give you an opportunity to use that spiffy laser ther- mometer you bought to test steam traps. The bad news is you will actually have to enter your boiler room. I know its hot humid dirty poorly lit and painfully noisy. There are reasons boiler room equipment despite the fact its where at least 70 cents of your utility dollar is spent sel- dom gets the attention in the form of routine inspection and preventive maintenance they deserve. Before getting further into this article I want to stress that boilers are one of the few devices in a drycleaning laundry operation that can actually kill you so NEVER DO ANY MECHANICAL WORK ON A BOILER THAT IS HOT OR IS UNDER PRESSURE Most tests are temperature measurements. Keep in mind when using laser pointer pistol grip thermometers the tar- get area being measured must NOT be a reflective color like silver or white. If youve got an unpainted stainless steel RETURN TANK or galvanized pipes which SHOULD NOT be used for steam or return piping take a black Sharpie type of laundry marker and darken a tar- get patch for accurate readings. There are nearly infinite combinations of boilers steam heated equipment and piping found in drycleaning and laundry operations. De- termining normal operating limits can be a bit imprecise. Far more accurate steam system operating levels and temperatures can be obtained by taking level and temper- ature readings while your boiler is operating properly. The accompanying illustration contains a section labelled READINGS WHEN BOILER OK feel free to copy this illustration for non-commercial use. After allowing the boiler to operate for at least two hours and it passes as operating correctly go through steps A H recording the level and temperatures readings. Also Low-Hanging Fruit Part 3 Boiler Troubleshooting By Bruce Grossman Industry Consultant continued on page 28 2828 FABRICARE FE ATURE remember to observe the level of water in the WATER COLUMN SIGHT GLASS noting where the return pump turns on and off. Do this a few times over a day and after a few tests mark the On and Off levels in the WATER COLUMN SIGHT GLASS on the water column for future reference. Now you have a reliable baseline to compare against suspected faulty readings. Most problems with boilers have something to do with supplying andor maintaining the proper volume of water in the boiler. The return system is responsible for this and the RETURN TANK plays a key role. The return tank acts as a reservoir to store the condensed steam called con- densate returning from the steam heated presses still coils etc. thats why its called a return tank. It also contains a device to make up for steam loss by adding new water usually a troublesome ball float valve in order to keep the water level in the return tank constant. For most cleaners the first indication of a problem is a fre- quent buzzing of the low water alarm. Ignoring the cause of this condition eventually allows the water level will drop low enough to require resetting a switch on the boiler con- trol panel. So now your boiler is off and production is shut down. When diagnosing a steam system problem not caused by boiler controls running a series of visual obser- vations and temperature measurements will generally point you to the exact cause or at least in the right direction. STEP A - Look at the water column sight glass. If the water level stays within the operational limits you proba- bly have a problem in the low water level sensing and the rest of this article is not going to help you. If the water level is in- deed low or absent go to Step B. STEP B - Look at the RETURN TANK WATER LEVEL SIGHT GLASS. If its low or absent make sure the makeup water valve to city water is open if its not open it. If the return tank water level is low or absent check the MAKE UP WATER BALL FLOAT VALVE. This device is extremely trouble- some and often sticks open or shut see the EZtimers Manufacturing ad for the EZ Level or Return Sen- tinel in this issue. Both are elec- tronic replacements for the make up water ball float valve. STEP C - Measure the return tank temperature. If its over 175 degrees F. then either the CHECK VALVE or VALVES between the boiler and RETURN TANK are sticking or there are several steam traps stuck open. STEP D - Measure the temperature on both sides of the check valves. If the difference between the readings are less than 40 degrees F. compare temperature measured at point four on the illustration the inlet of the check valve closest to the return tank to the return tank measured in Step C. If the return tank temperature is 10 degrees F. or more lower than point four on the illustration the check valves are probably leaking. STEP E - Measure the temperature of the condensate return line as close as you can get to the where it enters the boiler room or a location you can reach furthest away from the return tank after the steam header. If its above 205 degrees F. there are likely several steam traps stuck open. Keep in mind that it is possible to have both check valves leaking and steam traps stuck open. Thats it for this issue Ill continue this article next time. Bruce Grossman is the Chief of RD for EZtimers Manufacturing. EZ- timers is the manufacturer of the new EZ Level line of RETURN TANK level and temperature controllers. EZ Level devices replace that ancient and problematic ball-float valve in your boilers RETURN TANK helping to eliminate boiler damage and lost production caused by boiler down time. EZtimers also makes the popular TATTLER steam trap tester as well as the DROP IN THE BUCKET and SAHARA line of machines to reduce hazardous waste costs by treating then eliminating separator water. See our Ad in this issue and for further information on the EZtimers product line visit Please address any questions or comments for Bruce to or call 702-376-6693. 2015 by BRUCE GROSSMAN all rights reserved under International and Pan American copyright conventions. continued from page 27 NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 29 Problems with Spandex Spandex is an elastomeric fiber that can stretch repeatedly to at least twice its length and then return to the original size a desirable feature whenever resiliency and comfort is needed in a garment. Spandex is combined with wool cot- ton nylon polyester and other fibers in mens and womens athletic apparel business attire and formal wear. The lightweight soft and smooth fiber can be used in fabrics ranging from sheer nets of cloth to heavy wool suiting. The spandex fiber can be dyed but it is usually a white tan or black strand of yarn in fabrics. Span- dex can be used as an un- covered filament yarn that is knitted or woven with other yarns or as a core yarn that is stretched while another fiber is wrapped around it. Spandex or elastane are listed on fiber labels but hangtags may include tradenames such as Lycra Glospan or Roica. Spandex is resistant to deterioration from sunlight heat aging and seawater but may yellow if exposed to perspira- tion oils or chlorine. The fiber is damaged in water tem- peratures over 220F 104 C and at ironing temperatures beyond 300F 149 C. Spandex fiber is not damaged in drycleaning solvents or washing processes but there are some issues associated with its use in garments. Colorfastness The various fibers in the spandex blend may have differ- ent degrees of colorfastness to dyes and pigments that color the fabric. In recent years polyester has been blended with spandex and poor colorfastness of dark intense fabric colors has led to numerous complaints. Most dark colored spandex blends particularly those made with polyester have excess dyes that bleed out in the initial care process. In many cases a color loss is not noticeable in the dark fabric. Unfortunately fugitive dyes from the dark colored fabric usually migrate and transfer to the white or light colored fabric in the garment. Dye experts acknowledge that there is a problem with color- fastness of dyes used in the spandex blends but so- lutions may not be easy to implement at the manufacturing level. Dye experts suggest that in many cases the fugitive dye may be removed by drycleaning the fabric several times particularly if perchloroethylene is available. This gown made of polyester spandex fabrics shows a typical problem with the light and dark designs when they are drycleaned. Fugitive black dye transferred to the white trim. Original color of the white fabric is shown in the close-up. Tests showed the dyes continued to bleed in solvent and washing solution. Restoration attempts were unsuccessful. BULLE TINBULLE TIN NO.561 By DLI Research Department FABRICSFASHIONS 30 FABRICARE Tests performed at DLI show that excess dyes in a black polyesterspandex fabric was removed when the garment was cleaned in perchloroethylene preventing further damage in later care cycles. When matching gar- ments were cleaned in hydrocarbon or Green Earth sol- vent dye from the black fabric continued to bleed when tested. This suggests that the garment cleaned in perc can be cleaned again without fear of dye migration but the tops cleaned in hydrocarbon and Green Earth sol- vents will continue to bleed and discolor white fabric areas. If there is a large quantity of dark col- ored fabric in a garment it is possible that restoration will not be possible in any cleaning system. Garments should be able to withstand the care instructions on their labels. Labels are cor- rect most of the time but if dark and light fab- rics made of polyesterspandex are combined to make a garment it is suggested that the cleaner test for colorfastness with the intended drycleaning solvent perchloroethylene hy- drocarbon GreenEarth Solvon K4 or the wet- cleaning detergent solution before cleaning. If tests show that dyes bleed excessively an ad- justment may be needed in the cleaning process Be prepared to clean the item until bleed- ing stops and white fabric is original color restoration works best in percholoroethyl- ene drycleaning solvent. Wetcleaning may be safe if drycleaning causes excess bleeding. Refurbish by spot cleaning necklines un- derarms hemlines and local stains only. Follow with normal finishing and packag- ing procedures. Shrinkage Most fabrics experience relaxation shrinkage in drycleaning or washing and 1-3 is allowable accord- ing to specifications determined for clothing by the American Society for Testing and Materials. The shrink- age is due to relaxation of tensions that are placed on fabrics during weaving or knitting processes in manu- facture. However garments made with fabrics contain- ing spandex are usually close-fitting and relaxation BULLE TINNO.561 Three tops made of polyester and spandex fabrics were cleaned separately in perc hydrocarbon and Green Earth solvent. The black polyester trim in each top was tested for colorfastness before and after cleaning with the intended solvent. The blotters in the picture show results of the tests for tops cleaned in perc and hydrocarbon. shrinkage in jeans jacket or dresses will affect the wearers level of comfort resulting in a complaint to the cleaner. Shrinkage in any garment including those made with spandex materials is recognized by full linings puckered seams and wavy zippers. If the item has been cleaned according to the care label the shrink- age is a manufacturing problem. Fuzzy or Linty Fuzzy or linty appearance is a condition that occurs when the spandex yarns pop out and protrude on the fabrics sur- face. The damage is usually due to a mishap during the manufacturing process. Excess tension applied to the spandex during weaving or knitting insufficient heat setting or removal of lubricating finishes applied to the fabric may cause this condition. The appearance of fuzzy spandex cannot be predicted prior to cleaning and the damage may appear after the initial care process or be progressive with repeated cleaning. Seam or Yarn Slippage Seam or yarn slippage is recognized by the appear- ance of spandex that slips out of the stitched seams. The problem may occur if the garment is too tight or if an area receives excess stress and strain during wear. This type of yarn slippage may be due to insufficient stitching methods in manufacture. Puckering Elastic yarns have excellent stretch and recovery but when the yarn is over extended and is no longer able to return to its original size a rippled or puckered effect is noticed in the fabric. NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 31 BULLE TINBULLE TIN NO.561 The close-up of the lapel area shows white stretch yarns on the fabric surface causing the fuzzy or lint-like appearance on the jacket. The dress in the picture shows stretch yarns that have popped out of the seams. 32 FABRICARE CALL NOW FOR A QUICK UPGRADE 800-638-2627 Download DLIs app on the Apple App Store Android Verion coming soon and enter your Silver Gold or Premiere Member Number to unlock and use. AT ONLY 79MONTH SILVER IS OUR MOST POPULAR CATEGORY Two free analyses and reports on any items at DLIs Lab each year Free 247 access to the DLI Online Encyclopedia of Drycleaning Monday Morning Marketing weekly marketing e-news Monthly Heads Up for this Problem Garment alerts Free DLI Certification registration renewal Free Drycleaning Performance Evaluation test swatch report Free Laundry Performance Evaluation test swatch report Free Secret Shopper Telephone evaluation Discounts on nearly all other DLI services Plenty more DONT MISS THE APP OR ANOTHER ISSUE GO SILVER Invisible Stains What Is The Problem Stains that nobody remembers being visible when an item was brought to the professional cleaner are now mysteriously visible. What Does It Look Like The stains usually appear yellow or tan but can be shades of rust orange or brown de- pending upon the type of staining substance time on the fabric and the fiber content of the fabric. The stains appear in a pattern that re- sembles what would occur from accidental local food or beverage spillage. What Caused It The stains originate from incidental contact with substances that contain tannins andor sugars. Such chemicals are found in soft drinks tea coffee juices mixed drinks beer wine champagne fruits vegeta- bles desserts candy or many other foods or beverages. After substances containing tannin or sugar contact a fabric in use the staining moisture evaporates but colorless invisible residue remains. Over a period of time this residue will attract oxygen from the air and oxidize thus creating a new visible discoloration. Oxidized spillage residue whether seen or unseen is not readily removed by normal cleaning. However the heat of deodorizing andor steam finishing after professional cleaning can accelerate oxidation and cause the stains to become much more visible. Can It Be Prevented The best method of prevention is to take the article to a pro- fessional cleaner as soon as possible and point out the location of the spill and name the type of substance. With such quick attention the cleaner can then flush the entire residue from the fabric using special processes. This needs to be done before oxidation begins. Who Is Responsible The responsibility rests with the person that originally came into contact with the staining substance in the first place. Unfortunately many times the owner of the item doesnt know about or forgets the spillage and thus fails to take fast action to remove the residue. When the staining begins to oxidize and appear on its own or after cleaning the memory of the spillage is long gone. Is There A Remedy On some fabrics such as silk and wool oxidized tannin andor sugar stains are often permanent. In other cases professional cleaners have special agents and procedures that can reduce or remove some of these stains but remember after residue oxidation begins complete safe removal is very difficult. By Jim Kirby DLI Textile Analyst TABST E X T I L E A N A LY S I S B U L L E T I N S E R V I C E NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 33 BULLE TIN NO.459 The spillage on the front of these pants was at first ignored but oxi- dized with time and became more noticeable after cleaning. The staining on this fabric was left on for too long and now it has oxidized to a rust color shade and cannot be safely removed. 34 FABRICARE bulletin Manchas Invisibles By Jim Kirby DLI Textile Analyst TABST E X T I L E A N A LY S I S B U L L E T I N S E R V I C E BULLE TINNO.459SP Cul Es El Problema Manchas que nadie recuerda fueran visibles cuando un artculo fue trado al limpiador profesional ahora son misteriosamente visibles. Cmo Se Ve Las manchas por lo general parecen amarillas o bronceada pero pueden ser tonalidades de xido amarillo o marrn dependiendo del tipo de sustancia manchadora tiempo en la tela y el contenido de la fibra en la tela. Las manchas aparecen en un patrn que se asemeja a lo que ocurrira por un derrame accidental localizado de comida o bebidas. Qu Lo Causa Las manchas son originadas por contacto incidental con sustancias que contienen bronceadores yo azcares. Tales qumicos se encuentran en refrescos t caf jugos tragos cervezas vinos champn frutas vegetales postres dulces o muchas otras comidas o bebidas. Despus que las sustancias que contienen bronceadores o azcares hacen contacto una tela en uso la humedad manchadora se evapora pero residuos sin color invisibles se quedan. Durante un perodo de tiempo este residuo va a atraer oxgeno y se oxidar por lo tanto cau- sando una decoloracin nueva visible. Residuos de derrames oxidados ya sea visibles o invisibles no son fcilmente elimi- nados por lavado normal. Sin embargo el calor de desodor- izacin yo acabado de vapor despus de lavado profesional puede acelerar oxidacin y causar que las manchas se hagan mucho ms visibles. Se Puede Prevenir El mejor mtodo de prevencin es llevar la pieza a un limpiador profesional tan pronto sea posible y sealar la ubi- cacin del derrame y nombrar el tipo de sustancia. Con tal pronta atencin el limpiador profesional podra enjuagar el residuo completamente de la tela utilizando procesos espe- ciales. Esto se tiene que hacer antes que la oxidacin comience. Quin Es Responsable La responsabilidad descansa en la persona que estuvo en con- tacto con la sustancia manchadora en primer lugar. Desafor- tunadamente muchas veces el dueo del artculo no sabe o se olvida del derrame y por lo tanto no toma accin rpida para sacar el residuo. Cuando el manchado comienza a oxidar y aparece por su cuenta o despus del lavado el recuerdo del derrame se ha perdido hace tiempo. Hay Algn Remedio En algunas telas tales como seda y lana bronceado oxidante yo manchas de azcar son frecuentemente permanentes. En otros casos limpiadores procesionales tienen agentes especiales y procedimientos que pueden reducir o remover algunas de estas manchas pero recuerde que despus que la oxidacin del residuo comienza un removido exitoso es bien difcil. El derrame en frente de estos pantalones fue ignorado en un principio pero se oxidado con el tiempo y se hizo ms evidente despus del lavado. La mancha en esta tela fue dejada por mucho tiempo y ahora se ha oxidado a un color con tonalidad de xido y no puede ser removida de forma segura. NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 35 Loss of Whiteness Different Bolts What Is The Problem After cleaning only certain panels of a white cream or pastel garment or just certain pieces of a matching outfit or suit will show a noticeable change of shade. What Does It Look Like There is a variance in the degree of the whiteness and bright- ness in the different pieces of an outfit or from panel to panel on the same garment. Some areas may now appear duller or look gray pink bluish green or yellow. Other parts of the same garment or outfit remain the original shade. What Caused It A finish containing fluorescent brightening agents FBAs fluorescent whitening agents FWAs fluorescent dye opti- cal dye or optical brightening agents OBAs can be applied to fabrics to brighten or enhance the whiteness. Ensembles or even different portion of the same garment can be made from different bolts of fabric from different optical dye lots. Sometimes the different fabric bolts are brightened under dif- ferent conditions with slightly different fluorescent dye chem- istry. If an unstable brightening agent is used on a fabric it will begin to degrade from natural conditions of exposure to light and atmospheric fumes in use and storage. Brightener dete- rioration can be accelerated by the heat of drying or pressing during any cleaning operation. Thus after professional clean- ing the defective bolt of fabric that changed shade becomes more noticeable while the properly dyed more durable bolt of fabric still shows the original brightness andor whiteness. Can It Be Prevented The professional cleaning process is total immersion and subjects all garments in each load to the same treatment and thus cannot prevent shade variances to only certain garment panelsor just certain garments. Only the manufacturer can prevent such discoloration by better quality control standards during fabric selection and more durable processes of applying fluorescent whitening agents. Who Is Responsible Fluorescent whitening agent and optical dye technology is complex and not all brighteners are completely compatible and stable on all fibers and fabrics. Neither the consumer nor the cleaner has any control over the reaction of optical brightening agents to normal condi- tions of use storage and acceptable care. Thus the fabric manufacturer who applied the original brightener is respon- sible for its stability and durability. Is There A Remedy Fluorescent whitening agent decomposition of items containing different bolts cannot be restored to a uniform shade. By Jim Kirby DLI Textile Analyst TABST E X T I L E A N A LY S I S B U L L E T I N S E R V I C E BULLE TIN NO.460 Different bolts of fabric used for these two garments had varying degrees of fluores- cent brightener stability so some panels turned yellow during cleaning. 36 FABRICARE BULLE TIN Las Entretelas de Camisas Pueden Ponerse Amarillas Cul Es El Problema Despus del lavado solamente ciertos paneles de una prenda de vestir blanca crema o pastel o solo ciertas piezas de un conjunto en combinacin o traje van a mostrar un cambio notable en tonalidad. Cmo Se Ve Hay una discrepancia en el grado de la blancura y el brillo en las diferentes piezas de un conjunto o de panel a panel en la misma prenda de vestir. Algunas reas pueden ahora parecer sin brillo o verse grises rosadas azuladas verdes o amarillas. Otras partes de la misma prenda de vestir o conjunto se mantienen con la tonalidad original. Que Lo Caus Un acabado que contiene agentes abrillantadores fluores- centes AAF agentes blanqueadores fluorescentes ABF tinte fluorescente tinte ptico o agentes pticos abrillanta- dores AOA pueden ser aplicados a las telas para iluminar o realzar la blancura. Conjuntos o incluso diferentes porciones de la misma prenda de vestir pueden estar hechas de rollos de telas diferentes de lotes de tinte ptico diferente. A veces los rollos de telas diferentes son abrillantados bajo condi- ciones diferentes con qumica de tinte fluorescente ligera- mente distintas. Si un agente abrillantador inestable es utilizado en una tela ste se va a comenzar a degradarse por condiciones naturales de exposicin a la luz y emanaciones at- mosfricas en el uso y almacenamiento. Deterioro del abril- lantador puede ser acelerado por el calor del secado o prensado durante cualquier operacin de lavado. Por lo tanto despus del lavado profesional el rollo defectuoso que cam- bi tonalidad se hace ms notable mientras que el rollo de tela ms duradero teido apropiadamente aun muestra la brillantez yo blancura original. Se Puede Prevenir El proceso de lavado profesional es total inmersin y somete todas las prendas en cada tanda al mismo tratamiento y por lo tanto no puede prevenir variaciones de tonalidad a sola- mente ciertos paneles de la prenda de vestir o solo ciertas piezas. nicamente el fabricante puede prevenir tal decol- oracin mediante mejores normas de control de calidad durante la seleccin de telas y procedimientos ms duraderos para aplicar agentes blanqueadores fluorescentes. Quin Es Responsable Agentes blanqueadores fluorescentes y tecnologa de tinte ptico es compleja y no todos los abrillantadores son completamente compatibles y estables en todas las fibras y telas. Ni el consumidor ni el limpiador profesional tienen ningn control sobre la reaccin de agentes abrillantadores pticos a condiciones normales de uso almacenamiento y cuidado aceptable. Por lo tanto el fabricante de la tela que aplic el abrillantador original es responsable por su estabilidad y durabilidad. Hay Algn Remedio La descomposicin de agentes blanqueadores fluorescentes de artculos que contienen diferentes rollos de telas no pueden ser restaurados a una tonalidad uniforme. By Jim Kirby DLI Textile Analyst TABST E X T I L E A N A LY S I S B U L L E T I N S E R V I C E NO.460SP Rollos de telas diferentes utilizados para estas dos prendas de vestir tuvieron distintos grados de estabili- dad de abrillantador fluores- cente as que algunos paneles se tornaron amaril- los durante el lavado. NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 37 NOTin Vogue THERE MAY BE SOME DIFFICULTY PROCESSING THE GARMENTS FEATURED HERE. Members have indicated that the damage occurred even though these garments were cleaned according to the care labels instructions. The garments shown are among the current top repeaters received in DLIs International Textile Analysis Lab and are selected on the basis of the seasonality and timeliness of the problem. DLI has contacted these manufacturers to work with them on resolving these problems. The bottom portion of this bulletin details the status of this work. As these garments are currently on the market however and since we have seen repeated examples of damage you may want to discuss these potential problems with your customers. Manufacturer Brooks Brothers RN none on coat Manufacturer Contact Information Brooks Brothers 346 Madison Ave. New York NY 10017 Ph. 1-800-274-1815 Description A tan ladies all-weather coat made of cotton. The coat has cotton polyester polyurethane blend inner material fused to the back side. Care Instructions The care label simply states Dry Clean Only. Problem Testing reveals that during drycleaning the bonding agent fusing the two sides together partially dissolves causing the components to separate shift and stick together. This creates a puckered and blistered appearance in many areas. Response The manufacturers representative at first stated this coat if authentic should be drycleanable without any problems and they think it must be the drycleaners fault. We explained that independent laboratory testing proves otherwise so they then said to have any relatively new coats that show this problem returned to the seller for authenti- cation and possible adjustment. By Jim Kirby DLI Textile Analyst During proper professional drycleaning this coat will bubble and pucker. BULLE TIN NO.114 TEST YOUR CUSTOMER SERVICE WITH DLIS NEW IN-STORE MYSTERY SHOPPER PROGRAM DID YOU KNOW When we communicate face-to-face The WORDS WE USE impact 7 of the message Our TONE OF VOICE impacts 38 of the message Our NON-VERBAL SKILLS impact 55 of the message DLIs In-Store Mystery Shopper visits help you pick out the rockstars among your counter staff. Call 800-638-2627 for more information. GIVE YOUR CUSTOMERS THE ANSWERS Have DLIs TABS bulletins available at your counter to help explain damage to customers. Get all current TABS printed in a binder. Add one to every store. ONLY 49 CALL 800-638-2627 TO ORDER.