MAY/JUNE 2018 25 Acetate And Triacetate Acetate and triacetate are cellulose fibers that offer the comfort and soft drapeability of cotton, silk, and rayon. Manufacturing processes permit the fibers to accept a wide range of dyes and finishes but cause them to be thermo- plastic and susceptible to damage by heat in cleaning and finishing. Acetate and triacetate can be found in blouses, dresses, graduation robes, lin- ings, and household textiles such as draperies. They can be woven or knit into any fabric construction. Acetate can have a soft or crisp hand. Triacetate can be heat set, a characteristic that is useful in pleated garments. Both fibers may be used alone but are frequently blended with other fibers in a fabric. What should I know about handling acetate and triacetate? • Acetate is deceptive. It might look, feel, and react to burn tests like polyester and nylon but acetate and triacetate dis- solve in acetone, many ink and glue removers, and acetic acid at 33% or stronger. Some powdered drycleaning products will dissolve acetate. • Use solubility tests (see sidebar for information) to confirm fiber content before using stain removal agents and before proceeding with a wetcleaning process. • If a stain removal product says “do not use on acetate”, believe it. The fibers will be damaged. • The fibers are not strong, and fabrics are likely to show fraying, yarn separation, and holes at folds, creases, or areas that received rubbing, flexing, and stress during use. • Acetate is weakened by sunlight which can lead to the appearance of vertical tears in only the acetate yarns in draperies. • Certain dyes used in acetate can react with nitrous oxide gases from heat sources and cause color changes on the fabric, commonly referred to as fume fading. Blue gener- ally turns pink or red, whereas green usually turns orange. Triacetate is more resistant to this type of color change. Inspection • Check a coat or jacket for color changes at the hems, the sleeves, and the shoulder areas. These areas receive more exposure to conditions that cause fume fading. • Check for fraying, thin areas, or tears in areas that were creased or folded in storage. • Draperies that were not cleaned for many years may show fading or color changes in vertical folds, a warning sign that fibers are degraded from light exposure. • Check for signs of consumer stain removal attempts. If nail polish remover was used on triacetate and acetate to remove nail polish stains, fibers may be partially dissolved. Alcohol in hair spray is often used to remove stains but can cause unusual color loss in acetate fibers. Stain Removal Do not use acetone, ink and glue removers, acetic acid 33% or stronger, or any products with warnings against their use on acetate or triacetate. They will dissolve the fiber. Also BULLE TIN NO. 569 By DLI Research Department FABRICS&FASHIONS The black acetate lining on this jacket shows pink fume fading along the hem as well as near the neckline. The label shows that triacetate is combined with polyester in this garment. All care decisions should be based on triacetate fiber content since it is the most sensitive fiber in this blend.